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Vietnam
Halong Bay's limestone karsts, Hoi An's lantern-lit streets, and the world's best banh mi.
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Halong Bay's limestone karsts, Hoi An's lantern-lit streets, and the world's best banh mi.
Vietnam is one of the great travel countries — 1,600km of coastline, a cuisine that varies dramatically between north and south, jaw-dropping natural scenery, and a culture that's simultaneously ancient and electric with new energy. It rewards slow travel. The mistake is rushing it. Spend three weeks minimum if you want to understand more than the surface.
Renting a motorbike and riding the Hai Van Pass, the Ho Chi Minh Trail, or the full north-to-south route is one of Southeast Asia's great travel experiences.
Pho, banh mi, bun cha, cao lau — Vietnamese cuisine varies dramatically by region and every dish is extraordinary. Hoi An's food scene in particular is world-class.
The Cu Chi Tunnels, the DMZ, Hue's Imperial Citadel, and My Son's Cham temples give Vietnam a layered, complex history that rewards anyone who engages with it.
Six distinct areas — each with a different character, price point and experience.
The 36-guild streets of the Old Quarter — each street originally dedicated to a single trade. Guesthouses from £15/night tucked into the narrow houses. Walking distance to Hoan Kiem Lake, the Temple of Literature and the best bia hoi (fresh beer) corners in the country.
The UNESCO Ancient Town — yellow-washed merchant houses, the Japanese Covered Bridge, tailor shops and the best food city in Vietnam. Stay within the old town itself (not in the newer beach resort strip) for the lantern-lit evenings. Mid-range guesthouses throughout.
The modern city between Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City — excellent beach, the Dragon Bridge (breathes fire on weekends), and the base for day trips to Hoi An (30km) and the Marble Mountains. More value for money than either city on the central coast.
4km from the Ancient Town — a proper beach without the resort overdevelopment of Da Nang's My Khe. Eco-friendly guesthouses, excellent seafood shacks and the same lantern evenings a short bicycle ride away.
The buzzing central districts of Saigon — Ben Thanh Market, the War Remnants Museum, the Notre-Dame Cathedral and the best rooftop bars in Vietnam. Budget to luxury hotels. A completely different energy from Hanoi.
The inland version of Ha Long Bay — limestone karst scenery with rice paddies at the base instead of water. Cycling between the karsts, boat trips through flooded caves, and very affordable guesthouses. Far fewer tourists than Ha Long Bay itself.
Bargaining is expected at markets but not in restaurants — offer 60% of the first price asked at any market stall, expect to settle around 70–75%
The Open Tour Bus (a hop-on hop-off sleeper bus from Hanoi to Ho Chi Minh City) costs £25–40 and is the default backpacker route — it's slow but covers the coast with maximum flexibility
Vietnamese coffee (cà phê trứng in Hanoi, cà phê sữa đá everywhere) is among the best in the world — the Robusta beans give a strength and body that Arabica doesn't. Drink it from the pavement plastic stools, not an air-conditioned café
Crossing a Saigon road as a pedestrian: walk slowly and steadily, don't run and don't stop suddenly. Motorbikes navigate around you. Stopping or accelerating unexpectedly is what causes accidents
Ha Long Bay cruise quality varies enormously — 2-day overnight cruises on budget boats (£50) and luxury junks (£200) visit the same bays. The difference is the food, cabins and whether your fellow guests are having fun or complaining
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